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The Cruise People, Ltd. now has a wonderful research tool.  Whether you are thinking about cruising for the first time or you are an experienced cruiser, we can help you find that perfect cruise.  Fun, sun, beaches, adventure, culture or sights – there is a cruise here for you.

We have over 20,000 ocean and river cruises to show you including detailed itineraries, port descriptions and useful information about your cruise ship.

You can use the Quick Search to start or choose one of the offers or other links on this page.

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Puffins, Guillemots and Razor Bills

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A birder’s paradise, a rare opportunity, a fantastic spectacle – all appropriate phrases to describe the west coast of Norway during the spring movement of millions of birds.  Coming on the heels of “Lundkommardagen” (Puffins Day), when a black cloud of puffins descend on their Spring breeding grounds on Lovund, Hurtigruten’s “Birds of the Nordic Coast” sailing is a true ornithological event, departing Kirkenes on May 20, 2011, and heading south to Bergen.  A “Bird Watching Safari” in the North Cape, learning to photograph birds near Tromsø, a “Sea Eagle Safari” near Svolvœr, and a visit to the UNESCO-listed Vega Archipelago, home to 228 species of birds, are just some of the possible highlights on the voyage.  The six-day route follows the traditional fjord-indented Norwegian Coastal Voyage, stopping at 34 ports along the way.  Prices range from US$1,683 to $4,417 per person, double.

Lectures and stellar bird-watching opportunities are ever-present – as are the many species such as puffins, kittiwakes, guillemots, razorbills, cormorants, Arctic skuas, northern fulmars, Northern gannets, and sea eagles.  Passengers have the opportunity to view 30,000 nesting pairs of puffins, known for their orange bills and feet, on the island of Lovund, while in Honningsvåg an optional excursion heads of to the North Cape to see gannets and more.  An optional Midnight Sun trip in Tromsø takes guests to Prestvannet, a small lake that serves as home to an assortment of birds, including the red-throated loon.  A visit to the historic Viking grounds of Lake Laugen offers a look at the colourful Slavonian Grebe and Velvet scoter, and while en route to Trollfjord, an optional side trip allows for close up views of the majestic White-tailed Sea Eagle as they swoop in to catch fish thrown to them by the crew.  On-board lectures, given by experts, provide a better understanding of the birds and the history of their migration.  Of course, there is also plenty of time to also enjoy the many ports as well as stunning views along Norway’s 1,250-mile west coast. 

Sailing aboard Hurtigruten ships means large, comfortable lounges with panoramic windows and wonderful views from large outdoor decks; open seating for meals; fresh seasonal ingredients, plenty of incredible seafood and a comprehensive (expensive) wine list; multilingual tour directors; comfortable cabins – from the smaller inside accommodations to the large outside suites with private balconies; and a friendly and well-informed crew, ready to offer assistance and learned suggestions.

Additional information on all of these adventures, as well as brochures and reservations, can be obtained from The Cruise People, Ltd 1-800-961-5536, fax 1-888-759-2990 or cruise@thecruisepeople.ca

Ship’s Registry

Bahamas Ensign

by Mark Tre’ – "The Cruise Examiner"
At one time, passenger ships were registered in their country of operation, but those days are long gone. As far back as 1922, William Harriman registered the ex-German Reliance and Resolute under the flag of Panama and, among other things, operated world cruises with them. The chief reason for doing this was to avoid Prohibition as these two ships were at the time American-owned.
In 1948, Edward Stettinius, former Secretary of State under President Franklin D Roosevelt, founded the Liberian registry. Later followed others such as the Bahamian and Bermudian registers and more recently, Malta and Portugal. Meanwhile, a number of countries, particularly Italy and the Netherlands, have seen cruise ships return to their native registries. To-day, for something a little different, we have a look at cruise ship flags if registry.

The Bahamian Flag: Almost a Cruise Ship Registry of Default
By far the most popular flag for cruise ships to-day, and one that has gained from both Liberia and Panama in recent years, is that of the Bahamas, formed just over thirty years ago and now numbering 59 major cruise ships under its flag.
The large carriers are present, but most notably Royal Caribbean International, whose 22 ships are all now under Bahamian flag, a flag that so closely resembles that of Denmark that it is a wonder that that country did not sue the Bahamians when it was first introduced.
Following Royal Caribbean International, which operates about a third of the Bahamian-registered cruise ship fleet, comes Norwegian Cruise Line, with ten Bahamian-flag ships. The one exception is the US-flag Pride of America. Also registered in the Bahamas are six ships from Carnival Cruise Lines and five from Seabourn, numbering 11 ships from Carnival Corp & PLC brands.
Apart from these major participants, who account for over 80% of the Bahamian-registered cruise fleet, there are Hapag-Lloyd Cruises, with four ships, Regent Seven Seas with three, and a number of other one-or-two-ship companies.
The Panamanian Flag: The Traditional Flag of Convenience
There was a time when many cruise ships flew the Panamanian flag at the stern but today the Bahamian flag has taken first place. This now leaves two major Panamanian-flag cruise ship operators, Carnival Cruise Lines and MSC Cruises.
Carnival Cruise Lines started under Panamanian flag, with its Mardi Gras in 1972, and has remained largely loyal. While it did go into a mix of Panamanian and Liberian-flag ships, in more recent years the Bahamian flag has displaced that of Liberia. Even to-day, Carnival’s most modern ships, 17 of them, fly the Panamanian flag, while half a dozen of its older ships use the Bahamian.
The other Panamian-flag operator is MSC Cruises of Naples, a line that at one time did contemplate the Italian flag, but has not made the move so far, MSC is of course part of the Mediterranean Shipping Company of Geneva, one of the world’s largest container lines, which keeps the majority of its fleet registered in Panama.

The Bermudian Flag: Weddings At Sea
Bermuda has offered an offshore registry for British-owned ships since 1974 and its flag is the British red ensign. For many years, this ensign carried the Bermuda coat of arms in the fly, as does the Bermudian flag, but now the merchant flag that is used is the "undefaced UK Red Ensign." This meant that when P&O transferred its ships’ registries from London to Hamilton, Bermuda, it did not even have to buy new flags for its ships!
The Bermudian cruise ship fleet almost all comes from this one source, what was once P&O Princess Cruises but is now part of Carnival Corp & PLC. The Bermudian-flag fleet thus numbers 15 ships from Princess Cruises and seven from P&O, forming a flag where Carnival Corp & PLC now has more presence than that of Panama.
Whilst a good part of this fleet was once registered in London, one of the interesting marketing gimmicks that the Bermudian flag allows is that P&O and Princess can now, unlike under the British flag, allow masters to perform marriages on board. While the Bermudian flag is British, its registry has different legislation. This is, of course, a new source of onboard revenue for P&O.
In addition, UK-based Voyages of Discovery keeps its Discovery, a former Princess Cruises vessel, flagged in Bermuda.

The Italian Flag: A European Flag
It is now some time since Costa Cruises returned to the Italian flag from the Panamanian, but with 14 ships registered there it is a significant influence. In fact, when one adds the eight ships operated by German subsidiary brand Aida Cruises, we have a total of 22 ships, an equally important fleet to that operated by sister brands P&O and Princess under Bermudian flag, and yet a third sphere of influence for Carnival Corp & PLC.
It is somewhat ironic that Costa Cruises now controls Aida Cruises as it brings the most important German cruise brand under Italian flag. It has not been German at any rate since the first Aida, as when P&O took an interest in Aida Cruises the ships went to British flag for a while. What is even more ironic, however, is that in order to travel on one of these Italian-flag Aida ships one must be able to speak German!
The end result of this is that the German flag retains only one important cruise ship, Peter Deilmann’s Deutschland, with the balance of the German fleet being registered in the Bahamas (Hapag-Lloyd) or Malta (TUI Cruises).
While MSC Cruises, whose ships remain registered in Panama, is still missing, there is one rather interesting addition to the Italian cruise fleet, in that Plantours & Partners, now owned by Venice-based Ligabue, transferred its Vistamar from Spanish to Italian registry some time back.

The Maltese Flag: Four Royal Caribbean Brands plus Louis
The Maltese flag, a fairly recent one for cruise ships, has been taken up in a big way by Royal Caribbean Cruises. Although its main brand, Royal Caribbean International, uses the Bahamian flag, four of its other brands, Celebrity Cruises, Azamara Club Cruises, Pullmantur and TUI Cruises, are now the mainstay of the Maltese registry. Pullmantur only in recent times moved its seven-ship fleet from the Bahamas to Malta, lifting the number of Maltese-flag cruise ships to 19 in the process.
These brands are followed by Louis Cruises, who intend to add more ships to the Maltese flag in the very near future when they are transferred away from the now-very-expensive Greek flag.
P&O Cruises Australia also keep Pacific Sun registered in Malta.

The Netherlands Flag: Holland America Line
For many years, Holland America Line left the flag of its home country the Netherlands for Panama and the Bahamas, but to-day its whole fleet of 15 ships has been returned to its land of origin and registered in Holland. While there was talk at one time before they went out of business of Royal Olympic transferring its ships to Dutch flag, the basis of the Dutch cruise fleet remains Holland America Line, yet a fourth Carnival sphere of influence.
Not only that, but its Eurodam was named by Queen Beatrix in 2008 and Nieuw Amsterdam was named by Princess Maxima last year (With Queen Elizabeth II having christened the new Queen Elizabeth last year, Micky Arison seems to meet a lot of Queens these days) .

Lesser Cruise Ship Flags: Portugal, the UK, the Marshall Islands, Japan and the US
One flag that has come almost out of nowhere in recent years is that of Portugal, through its offshore registry in Madeira. In addition to the five-ship fleet of Lisbon-based Classic International Cruises, as of last year it also counts among its number the four-ship fleet of Iberocruceros, yet another brand of Carnival Corp & PLC, which now gives Portugal a fleet of nine cruise ships.
A net loser over recent years, however, is the UK, which until recent times numbered the whole of the P&O fleet plus most of its sister Princess Cruises ships, under its flag, Now, however, it is left with the three Cunard Queens and one small Princess,  Hebridean Princess, that the Queen has in fact chartered twice, plus three other cruise ships.
Ironically, the three other UK-flag ships are the three ex-Sitmar ships that now form part of P&O Cruises Australia. So now we have P&O’s UK-flag ships sailing from Australia while the UK is served by its Bermudian-flag ships! The fourth P&O Cruises Australia ship is flagged in Malta. The three Cunard ships and three P&O Australia ships nevertheless form another sphere of influence for Carnival Corp & PLC once again!
The Marshall Islands is new to cruise ships, but the four ships of Oceania Cruises now call those Pacific islands home. Elsewhere, Japan also counts four cruise ships from its Mitsui OSK, NYK and Venus brands the United States continues to see Pride of America, the remaining rump of what was once a three-ship fleet, under its flag.

The Traditional Flags: Norway and Greece
It is somewhat surprising that the Norwegian flag has totally disappeared from cruise ships, where even a few years ago Fred Olsen Cruise Lines still used it. Even with an open registry that allows offshore Norwegian shipowners to avoid heavy Norwegian taxes, the Norwegian flag has been relegated to coastal status with the Hurtigruten fleet, which is not counted here.
Names such as Norwegian America Line, Norwegian Cruise Line, Royal Caribbean Cruise Lines, Flagship Cruises and Royal Viking Line have all disappeared, being bought out over the years by British, Malaysian and American investors. Important Norwegian ownership does remain, however, as in addition to Fred Olsen, Anders Wilhelmsen, along with the Pritzker and Ofer families, remains a major shareholder in Royal Caribbean Cruises.
It appears that the Greek flag too is about to disappear from cruise ships, with the only major operator still flying it, Louis Hellenic Cruises, applying to leave the flag because of huge pension costs now being demanded by local seamen’s unions and potenitally an austerity-driven Greek government. None of the old Greek names is left, among them Chandris, Efthymiades, Epirotiki, Goulandris, Kavounides, Nomikos and Typaldos, all now long gone from the scene.
Two and a half years ago, on September 6, 2008, The Cruise Examiner wrote in "A Return to Greek-flag Cruise Ships" about Louis Cruises placing eight of its ships under Greek flag. Then, on August 30, 2010, we wrote a news item headed "Greece Gives up Cruising Monopoly From its Ports." Now, only a few months later, we find that Louis is contemplating giving up the Greek flag in protest against these demands for onerous pension fund contributions and has applied to have the Louis Cristal and Louis Calypso moved to Malta, where a number of its other ships such as Louis Majesty is already registered. Louis Emerald may also follow.
The savings from switching from Greek to Maltese flag is reported to be in the order of Euros 300,000 per ship per month and the move has more or less been brought about because vessels flying other European flags will now be able to compete with the Greek flag, thus offering Louis Cruises no protection. Louis, meanwhile, would still employ Greek masters, senior officers and senior engineers even under the Maltese flag.
If this happens it will be a sad day for Greece and the first time in many years that no important cruise ship will have flown the Greek flag, long so emblematic of professional seafarers.

Liberian Flag is Dead for Cruise Ships
For many years, the flag of Liberia, one that somewhat resembles that of the United States, was popular with American owners. Carnival Cruise Lines, Royal Caribbean and Celebrity all used to operate some of their fleet under Liberian flag but since the dictatorship of Charles Taylor, who was removed from power in 2003 and has just been tried for war crimes, all cruise ships left the Liberian flag.
Along with Panama, Liberia used to be the other chief flag of convenience but we have now seen new ones arrive such as Malta and the Marshall Islands. Indeed, the Marshall Islands programme was originally administered by the same people that operated the Liberian register.
Meanwhile, Taylor’s trial was recently completed and a verdict is now awaited. Most people forget that it was President George W Bush who was responsible for removing this dictator. Although Liberia is now led by Africa’s first elected woman president and it retains a high number of cargo ships under its flag, it is very unlikely to be seen flying over cruise ships again, at least in the near future.

All in all, with cruise ships flags of registry seem to be a very fluid subject, but it is interesting that individual fleet policies are much more homogeneous now than they were a few years ago, when different parts of each fleet were registered under various different flags. Carnival Cruise Lines seems to be the only brand that still operates a two-registry policy.

Courtesy of http://www.cybercruises.com

Hurtigruten Offers for 2011 Voyages

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Hurtigruten has announced three offers – ‘Spring Fling,’ ‘Unprecedented Savings,’ and ‘Half Off Companion Fare’ – for a diverse selection of voyages taking place in 2011, including itineraries in Norway, Greenland and Europe.  Aside from the classic six-, seven- and 12-day itineraries along the Norwegian coast, called “the world’s most beautiful voyage” by Lonely Planet, passengers receive savings on “Glaciers & Icebergs,” a Disko Bay expedition along Greenland’s west coast, and “Pearls of the Baltic Sea,” which visits half a dozen ports including Copenhagen and St. Petersburg.  Offers are valid for new retail bookings on select departures and cannot be combined with other discounts except for the repeater discount, which gives those who have travelled onboard Hurtigruten within the last three years savings of up to 10% on a subsequent voyage.  Prices are per person, in $US, double; higher rates are for suites.

· The Spring Fling deal offers savings of up to 30% – with fares discounted as much as $1,370 – on six, seven or 12-day Norwegian Coastal Voyages departing on applicable sail dates in April or May that are booked by April 30.  Special prices range from $1,178 to $3,198.

· The Unprecedented Savings offer allows travellers who book by April 30 to enjoy significant savings – up to $2,984 – on cabins or suites when they let Hurtigruten assign specific cabin choice at check-in on the day of departure; valid on the Greenland “Glaciers and Icebergs” itinerary, with special fares ranging from $5,646 to $7,339, and the European “Pearls of the Baltic” voyage, with rates from $2,034 to $3,325.

· With the Half-Off Companion Fare deal, passengers receive 50% off a second fare for the six-, seven- or 12-day Norwegian Coastal Voyages when the first is purchased for the regular price.  Offer valid on select departures between May 1 and November 6, 2011, when booked by May 31; 50% companion fares range from $525 to $2,639.

Hurtigruten is a leader in expedition cruising, sailing to the most remote of destinations including Antarctica, Greenland and the Arctic’s Spitsbergen as well as year round along Norway’s coast and Europe in the spring.  The company’s fleet of 14 ships, carrying 100 to 646 passengers, allows passengers to enjoy unique destinations in a relaxed atmosphere.   Additional information on all of these adventures, as well as brochures and reservations, can be obtained from The Cruise People on 1-800-961-5536..

Hurtigruten Theme Cruises

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With the demand for unusual and educational experiences on the rise, Hurtigruten has created an expanded roster of fascinating theme cruises for 2011 – and with eight unique itineraries ranging from classical opera and photography to astronomy and New Year’s celebrations to birding and polar explorers, there is an option for everyone.  Early-booking prices on reservations made by Dec. 31, 2010, available on most voyages, offer savings of up to 20% and range from $722 to $4,989 per person, double.  Voyages booked after Dec. 31 range from $722 to $5,252; suites are priced higher.

· “Astronomy Voyage” gives guests the chance to see (without the interference of city lights) and learn about the Arctic night sky as well as the Aurora Borealis, with renowned guest lecturers and a visit to the Northern Lights Planetarium in Tromso; high demand means there are now three departure dates available: Jan. 29, Feb. 20 and Mar. 25.

· “Winter Digital Photography Voyage” offers photographers with varying degrees of experience the opportunity to capture a diverse range of subject matter, from wheeling sea eagles to brightly painted fisherman’s boats, in the company of a seasoned photographer – Beginners Level, Jan. 11; Intermediate Level, March 8.

· "Celebrations in the Arctic" – ringing in the New Year as no one else can – with the countdown held on the North Cape, Europe’s most northern point, departing Dec. 26, 2011.

· "Opera Voyage" is an opera-lover’s dream trip – daily concerts on board and a Norwegian New Year’s Concert at Oslo’s Concert Hall with a tour of the Opera House the next day – Jan. 6, 2011.

· "Birds of the Nordic Coast" takes place as millions of migrating birds return to the Arctic for nesting and shows passengers why Norway can justifiably be called “Nature’s Wonderland” – a true ornithological event with lectures and stellar bird-watching opportunities – May 20, 2011.

· “Norway’s Big Day Out” celebrates Norway’s Constitution Day and gives guests a deeper understanding of the Norwegian culture that Hurtigruten has been a part of for more than 100 years – departs daily May 6-16, 2011.

· “Hall of the Mountain King” is a classic voyage that immerses passengers in the music and background of Edvard Grieg, Norway’s best-known classical composer, and a program of captivating on board lectures and piano recitals – Oct. 9 and 15, 2011.

· “The Ice-Breakers” delves deep into the history of the polar explorers, their voyages and the culture and inhabitants of the Polar Regions; lectures and optional excursions ranging from a Viking feast to the Polaria Centre enrich the experience – Oct. 14, 2011.

Hurtigruten is a world leader in expedition cruising, sailing to the most remote of destinations including Antarctica, Greenland and the Arctic’s Spitsbergen as well as year round along Norway’s coast and Europe in the spring.  Additional information on all of these adventures, as well as brochures and reservations, can be obtained from The Cruise People, Ltd. 1-800-961-5536 in North America or +44 (0)20 7723 2450 in Europe.

A Unique FRAM Voyage

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Some months ago I walked out of the office of The Cruise People, here in 
Toronto, clutching a copy of the current hurtigruten brochure for Arctic 
and Antarctic expeditions aboard Fram. After I got home and finished reading, I 
realized that the last 2010 Arctic voyage ended at Halifax and the first 
to the Antarctic began from Buenos Aires, But there was nothing about 
how the ship would get from the former port to the latter. Deadheading, 
I thought, but to satisfy my curiosity I visited the website 
hurtigruten.com. It was there that I discovered that Fram would indeed 
accept passengers on this non-stop 23-day voyage.

The voyage could not be booked through a travel agency, but only by 
direct application to Fram's Chief Purser by e-mail or phone. Fares were 
remarkably low. For about $116 a day I could have an outside double 
cabin, and there was no supplement for single occupancy. Inside cabins 
cost less, mini-suites and suites cost more. The rate included travel, 
accommodation and three meals per day. Incidentally, when Fram concludes 
her Antarctic season in March 2011 she will accept passengers from 
Buenos Aires to Lisbon at the same rate. As I had made 18 hurtigruten 
voyages along the coast of Norway, the Chief Purser notified me that I 
could have either a 10 per cent discount or an upgrade to a mini-suite. 
I chose the latter.

And so I boarded Fram at Halifax on October 9, a long 5,750 nautical 
miles from Buenos Aires. Docked close by was the huge cruise ship Aida 
Luna which overshadowed Fram considerably. Fram, though, is not exactly 
a small ship. Completed in 2007 by Fincantieri and carrying an Ice 
Classification of 1A/1B, she has a gross tonnage of 11,647. Her overall 
length is 114 metres (375 feet), her beam is 20 metres (66 feet).  Her 
main engine is an MAK 6 M25, developing 7,920kW, giving her a service 
speed of about 15 knots. She has 136 cabins and suites, giving her a 
berthed-passenger capacity of 318. She spends summers in the Arctic 
(Spitsbergen, Iceland, Greenland), winter in the Antarctic and spring in 
Western Europe.

What follows are random notes about the ship and the voyage. Keep in 
mind that Halifax to Buenos Aires was a one-off experience and what I 
write may not always be applicable to the ship's published voyages.

Shortly after we left Halifax a reception was held for the nine 
passengers. It was attended by the ship's master, Capt. Rune Andreassen, 
and other officers. It was an informal occasion and throughout the 
voyage, almost everything was informal (except for the safety session). 
Of the nine passengers, two were holdovers from the Reykjavik to Halifax 
voyage. Of the others, four were American, two German and one Canadian 
(me).  We were all quite compatible. On my voyage, officers and crew, 
including hotel staff, numbered 62. This included a doctor and nurse. At 
Buenos Aires more hotel staff and enrichment lecturers were due to board..

It is important to remember that Fram is a purpose-built expedition ship 
and not a conventional cruise ship. If you are looking for a spa, an art 
auction, a ship's photographer, an entertainer, a cruise director or 
gold chain at $1 per inch (or whatever the price is), you have strayed 
aboard the wrong ship. That said, Fram is not short of amenities. She 
has a shop that sells mostly high-quality Norwegian knitwear and other 
items and she does have a bar where prices of drinks are more or less 
similar to those in cruise ships. She offers enrichment lectures by 
noted authorities.

Fram's senior officers are mostly Norwegian. Waiters, waitresses and 
cabin attendants are Filipino and Filipina. Whereas on hurtigruten 
("express route") voyages in Norway itself the hotel staff are Norwegian 
and apparently well paid (and the brochure states that tips are not 
required), it is different in Fram where the suggested gratuity is $8 
per person per day.

After leaving Halifax, land remained out of sight until we saw the coast 
of Uruguay the day before the voyage ended. Occasionally birds flew 
around the ship and from time cargo vessels could be seen on or near the 
horizon. Otherwise, we had the ocean to ourselves.

Anyone who has sailed the Norwegian coastal voyage in the ships from the 
1990s and early 2000s will feel quite at home in Fram. Her layout is 
similar, but her passenger capacity is lower and maybe she is a little 
more spacious in relation to her passenger capacity. Fram was built to 
take her place on the Norwegian coastal voyage if required but so far 
this has not happened.

The main lounge on the eight-deck ship is on Deck 7 forward. It has 
full-length inward-sloping windows on three sides and also overhead 
windows. The chairs are comfortable, the bar is handy, there is a piano 
and dance floor, and there are two telescopes to magnify the scenery. 
The lounge also has a library with books mostly in English and German 
that describe the Arctic and Antarctic regions as well as a limited 
selection of fiction. For my part, I took along a dozen books that I had 
been promising myself to read for many years (decades, in some 
cases)--and finally I did. Also on Deck 7 was a well-equipped fitness 
room that contained exercise cycles of various kinds, treadmills, 
weights and devices whose purpose I could not discern. There was also a 
table-tennis table. Just aft of the gym were two outdoor Jacuzzis which 
were heated up and ready to use almost every day. One deck above were 
the men's and women's saunas and they too were fully operative 
throughout the voyage. Still on the topic of fitness, Fram does not have 
a wrap-around deck for jogging or walking but a fair amount can be 
achieved on decks 5 and 7.

The open decks are made of steel which is covered by a patterned rubber 
or rubber-like substance, maybe almost half-an-inch thick, which makes 
jogging a little more pleasant. There were many deck chairs, all of them 
of the sit-up rather than stretch-out variety. Some were wooden but most 
were of lightweight tubular metal with horizontal blue vinyl straps, 
similar to those what were common in cruise ships about 25 years ago.

Before I boarded I wondered where the handful of passengers would eat. 
Officers' mess? Crew mess? It was neither. Everyone--officers, crew and 
passengers--ate in the main dining room aft on Deck 4. Also, everyone 
had the full run of the ship, including the main lounge, lobby, arcade 
and bistro. The dress code was casual for everyone from the master down. 
Two waiters had been assigned to the passengers and they were invariably 
dressed in t-shirts--which did not lessen their efficiency at all.

The dining room, like the main lounge, had large windows on three sides. 
It also had something I have not seen elsewhere--an open deck directly 
aft of the dining room, running the width of the ship and maybe about 
six feet deep. At a guess, I would say that this deck allows passengers 
to dash out and photograph scenic areas then return to their tables 
before their food grows cold. Speaking of tables, there were two 
principal kinds, rectangular ones for four, round ones for six. There 
was exactly one table for two. Each pair of rectangular tables was 
separated from its close neighbour by a small glass partition. I had a 
table all to myself although my fellow passengers entreated me to join 
them. Actually I did join them on about seven or eight occasions when 
dinner consisted of a barbecue held on Deck 7. A barbecue is a pleasant 
way of eating, especially when there are no mosquitoes to spoil the 
occasion.

Food was self-service, buffet style, for all three meals but our two 
waiters brought orange juice and coffee to the passenger tables and 
cleared away the dishes. The food was good and there was always a choice 
of items. For example, at breakfast there were always two or three kinds 
of rolls, two or three varieties of bread and four kinds of pastries, 
four or more kinds of cheese, eggs (boiled, fried, omelettes), and 
several kinds of cold fish and meat. Everything was attractively laid 
out. Many of the dishes were typically Norwegian, but there were also 
dishes that were prepared to appeal to Filipino tastes--and passengers 
were welcome to try them.  I certainly enjoyed my meals but it is 
possible that on regular voyages dinner may possibly be a little more 
sophisticated.

As a passing comment, plates were about seven inches in diameter 
and twelve inches in diameter. You simply chose the plate you wanted and 
selected the food you liked. Almost invariably the young Filipina 
stewardesses, most of them quite small in build, chose the 12-inch 
plate, heaped it to capacity and polished off the contents in short order.

Still on the topic of food, passengers found a ready supply of coffee, 
tea and cookies at the bistro, Deck 4 forward, throughout the day. An 
alcove near the bistro held an assortment of board games such as jig-saw 
puzzles, dominoes, Scrabble, Monopoly and Othello. Close to the bistro 
was the Internet cafe, which charged about $10 per hour or half hour--I 
have forgotten which. Several passengers brought along their laptops, as 
did some of the crew. Just forward of the bistro were two lecture halls. 
On Fram's Arctic and Antarctic voyages, illustrated lectures are a 
principal feature of each expedition.

When I boarded Fram in Halifax I thought the ship looked clean and well 
cared for, just the way she should be. In spite of that an immense 
amount of work was carried out between Halifax and Buenos Aires. On the 
outside decks, wooden rails were scraped, sanded and varnished. Paint 
was applied liberally to outdoor areas on decks 5, 7 and 8. Internally, 
carpets were vacuum cleaned, followed by the application of liquid 
cleaner. Signs that read "wet carpet" proliferated, and corridors and 
stairways were taped off until the carpeting dried. Chairs were turned 
over, cushions shaken then vacuum cleaned. Cabins were thoroughly 
inspected; mattresses were turned over, woodwork was dusted, windows 
were cleaned inside and out and bathrooms were scrubbed down. Overhead 
panels in some corridors were removed, leaving the wiring exposed so 
that repairs could be made. The more obscure areas of the ship were not 
immune.

Early in the voyage, the Filipino/Filipina staff occupied the port side 
of the dining room, but when that area was cleaned and carpeting was 
still wet, they migrated to the starboard side, where the passengers 
ate. Sometimes they shared the same table as me. They were pleasant and 
polite but there was not much communication between them and the 
passengers.

In the evenings, the hotel staff and passengers participated in Fram's 
version of the Olympic Games, held in the forward lounge. Events 
included table tennis, foosball (if I have the name correct), target 
shooting (outdoors with air guns) and karaoke. There were six teams and 
someone had entered my name as part of the dining room team. I did not 
participate or even attend any events but I now possess a certificate, 
signed by the captain, attesting that I was a member of the second-place 
team. The crew took part in the so-called Olympics with great 
enthusiasm. Later in the voyage a Hallowe’en costume party was held and 
it too was a great success from all reports. I wonder, is Hallowe’en 
really observed in the Philippines?

A visit to the bridge was arranged for the passengers one morning and 
Capt. Andreassen patiently answered questions, most of which I suspect 
he had answered many times in the past. Before taking over Fram he had 
spent more than 20 years in the ships of the Norwegian coastal voyage. 
Bridge visits for passengers are held on most voyages but visits to the 
engine room are not. However, on my voyage the passengers had a lengthy 
tour of the engine room conducted by the First Engineer. I have no 
particular technical knowledge, but the engine room was clean, brightly 
lit and noisy. When it was over, the participants assembled in a 
hallway, far from the engine room, where the First Engineer answered 
their questions. On our way to the engine room, we walked through Fram's 
cargo area where the Polarcirkel boats were stored. There are used for 
Arctic and Antarctic landings where no docking facilities exist. The 
Polarcirkel boats are a much improved version of the Zodiacs invented by 
Jacques Cousteau.

I think I mentioned earlier that I occupied a mini-suite. It was on Deck 
5, port side. At a guess, I would say it measured around 200 square 
feet, bathroom included. A stewardess performed the usual duties that 
one would expect on a cruise ship. Like all suites and mini-suites in 
the ship, it was named for a crew member of the original Fram a century 
ago. My suite, nicely carpeted, had a comfortable bed (queen size?) that 
could not be split into two individual beds, a two-person sofa, a coffee 
table, a safe, a writing table with a large mirror, a chair, and shelf 
space. One shelf contained tea- and coffee-making supplies. There was a 
large window that opened onto the open section of Deck 5. The bathroom 
was quite small but it contained all the necessities and was well lit. 
Like the ships on the Norwegian coastal voyage, the bathroom had a 
heated floor. The shower was glass enclosed. I took a look in a regular 
cabin and noticed that the shower had a curtain rather than a glass 
door. Storage was sufficient for me but I wonder if it would be enough 
if two people occupied the suite. There was a modern flat-screen 
television but we were too far from land to receive news programmes. 
Movies included Rocky IV, Rocky V and The Da Vinci Code. Having read The 
Da Vinci Code some years ago and been numbed by its banality, I was not 
tempted to watch the movie.

Like most passenger ships, Fram had artwork in the cabins and in public 
rooms. The prints in the cabin left me baffled. They were by a Greenland 
artist. Maybe they meant something to art-conscious Greenlanders but I 
was not the only passenger who was at a loss. The larger works were 
easier to relate to but their identification labels were at waist level 
rather than at eye level.

And so the voyage continued. For much of the time, the ship sailed 
between 10 and 12 knots, occasionally exceeding 12 knots slightly and 
sometimes dropping to about 9.7 or 9.8 knots. The ship uses a light fuel 
which is possibly now mandatory in remote regions such as the Antarctic. 
The sea was comparatively calm for almost the whole voyage. Only for the 
first few days was there even a hint of rough seas, and it was an almost 
imperceptible hint. Days with sunshine far outnumbered days without 
sunshine.

On the evening prior to our arrival at Buenos Aires, we picked up a 
pilot off Montevideo. The following morning, 31 October, we were due to 
dock at Buenos Aires at eight o'clock. However, strong winds prevented 
Fram and other ships from entering the harbour. We finally docked at the 
container terminal at six in the evening. I stayed aboard until the next 
morning, then took a taxi to the airport where I began the long flight 
back to Toronto.

I am glad I made the voyage, but possibly I would have enjoyed it more 
if it had been a few days shorter. But that's a personal opinion.

LiveJournal Tags: Fram

Just A Few Of The Many Activities On Hurtigruten’s "Hunting The Light" Voyages

Image via Wikipedia

 

Hurtigruten is always looking to intrigue its passengers, offering unique opportunities to explore remote regions and learn about different cultures — and the west coast of Norway in the winter offers another wonderful opportunity. From November 15 through March 15, Hurtigruten takes passengers on "Hunting the Light" voyages – an exploration that offers dog sledding, the nightly viewing possibility of the spectacular Aurora Borealis (or Northern Lights), overnights at the Kirkenes Snow Hotel, swims in the Barents Sea, incredible vistas, wonderful meals of local fare, and numerous presentations on the history and cultures of Norway.

Spending time in the Arctic Circle is a relatively rare and special event and Hurtigruten celebrates with a polar baptism – an ice cube ‘shower’ hosted by King Neptune himself. Guests voluntarily line up (few sit it out) and await their light, but cold, dousing; all guests receive an Arctic Circle Certificate announcing their accomplishment.

Other presentations and activities on board and ashore are unique and special: imagine eating freshly made fish cakes while learning about the 1890 "Battle of Trollfjord;" listening to the captain’s description about life along the Norway coast; understanding the science behind the Aurora Borealis; learning how to make bends and hitches; and gaining insight into native Sámi culture — all while watching the magical polar light colours of gold, pink and blue reflect off the snow-laden coast and being on the lookout for the Aurora Borealis display. Added treats during the holiday season include visiting Christmas markets and seeing the twinkling decorations light up the shore line.

Excursions, both included and optional are equally as intriguing. Passengers can enjoy a Viking feast with a Viking Chieftain in Lofotr, experience dog sledding on the frozen landscape, visit the world’s northernmost town, Hammerfest – the first town in Northern Europe to get electric street lights (1891), strike out for the North Cape and its incredible view near the top of the world, ride snowmobiles on a winter safari, visit and/or stay overnight at the Kirkenes Snow Hotel, take the Arctic Ocean plunge, or take in a midnight concert in Tromsø’s Arctic Cathedral.

The six-day southbound, seven-day northbound and 12-day round-trip make 34 ports of call along Norway’s stunningly scenic, fjord-filled west coast. The fjords have had awards and honours bestowed on them over the years, most recently by National Geographic Traveler which named it the world’s most celebrated and iconic travel destinations.

Regular fares range from US$1,019 to $6,622 per person, double. Two special promotions are being offered on bookings made by Sept. 30, 2010: "Buy Six, Get Five Free" offers a 12-day round-trip itinerary between Oct. 5 and Dec. 31 for the price of the six-day trip, amounting to a 30% cabin discount on 22 selected sailings; "2011 Early Booking" reduces prices by 20% on most ships for sailings in 2011. Further savings of 10% are offered to passengers who sailed on any Hurtigruten ship in the past three years.

Hurtigruten is a world leader in expedition cruising, sailing to the most remote of destinations including Antarctica, Greenland and the Arctic’s Spitsbergen as well as year round along Norway’s coast. Additional information on all of these adventures, as well as brochures and reservations, can be obtained from The Cruise People, Ltd. 1-800-961-5536.

Companions Go at Half Price on Hurtigruten’s Norwegian Coastal Voyage

The North Cape beckons, the oft-lauded fjords await, the midnight sun lights the way around the clock, and Hurtigruten makes it easier to take in all these Norway treats (and many more) this summer with a 50% off the companion fare special running through Sept. 13, 2010. Passengers, able to choose from more than 100 departures of the Norwegian Coastal Voyage six-, seven- or 12-day sailings, take in Norway’s spectacular fjord-filled, 1,250-mile west coast between the charming Hanseatic port of Bergen and Kirkenes, close to the Russian border. Booking deadline is August 31; combinable offers include AARP on board cabin credit of up to $100 and 10% savings for passengers who sailed on any Hurtigruten ship in the past three years.
National Geographic Traveler magazine has placed the Norwegian fjords, a highlight of Hurtigruten’s Coastal Voyage, at the top of its list of the world’s most celebrated and iconic travel destinations – based on its survey done with the National Geographic Center for Sustainable destinations. Besides seeing many of these celebrated fjords, Hurtigruten passengers get to visit an eclectic array of ports (34 in all), including Trondheim, one of the country’s oldest cities and a thriving university town; Tromso, Europe’s largest town above the Arctic circle; the Lofoten archipelago, with peaked mountains and villages filled with rust-red fishermen’s cabins; and Alesund, destroyed by fire in 1904 and completely rebuilt in the Art Nouveau style.
Shore excursions range from touring to active explorations: the North Cape, sitting 1,000 feet above the churning Barents Sea and offering a top-of-the-world vista; a riverboat safari in Kirkenes; a visit to the UNESCO islands of Vega, where eider ducks are kept as pets; taking in the beauty of the Geirangerfjord, also a UNESCO site; a RIB safari to Saltstraumen to witness the world’s most powerful tidal current; an exploration of Lapland; and a Lofotr Viking Feast with traditional foods, singing and dancing; to name a few. Excursions can be booked before departure – 5% discount when pre-booking three or more (six or more on 12-day sailings).
Hurtigruten is a world leader in expedition cruising, sailing to the most remote of destinations including Antarctica, Greenland and the Arctic’s Spitsbergen as well as year round along Norway’s coast. Additional information on all of these adventures, as well as brochures and reservations, can be obtained from  The Cruise People 1.800.961.5536.

Insight into Global Warming Aboard Hurtigruten’s "In The Wake Of The Vikings" – Iceland-Greenland-Canada Sailing

Hurtigruten has announced the addition of foremost Greenland climate expert Dr. Jason Box as a guest lecturer on its 14-day “In the Wake of the Vikings.” Dr. Box, associate professor of geography at Ohio State University’s Byrd Polar Research Center, has travelled to Greenland 18 times over a span of 15 years, studying and witnessing the effects of global warming, and offers considerable experience and insights into the island’s geography and culture. As a contributing author to “Climate Change 2007,” which was awarded the Nobel Peace Prize in the same year, Dr. Box has appeared as an expert on CBS News, NBC’s Today Show and the Discovery Channel and been quoted in The New York Times and numerous other venues. This incredible odyssey, departing Sept. 26, 2010 from Iceland aboard the deluxe 318-passenger  Fram, encompasses some of Greenland’s and eastern Canada’s most spectacular natural and historical landscapes. Booking by July 31 means savings of 25% — reduced fares are US$4,743 to US$9,316 per person, double. Passengers who book suites also receive free round-trip airfare from JFK or Newark Airports.

Making use of multimedia lectures and Q&A sessions, Dr. Box will leave Hurtigruten’s guests with a clearer understanding of one of the world’s most discussed climate issues, global warming, and its effect on Greenland’s glaciers and climate. “We bear witness to a pivotal moment in Earth’s climate history with Greenland at the epicentre of that change — as its glaciers react to the planet’s warming,” explains Dr. Box. “During my lectures, I will be focusing on the current state of research undertaken by myself and other leading scientists and discuss some of the possible solutions and options available.” Other onboard experts from numerous disciplines, including geology, marine life, environment, history and culture, will also be on hand and will join the landings and shore excursions where passengers have the chance to get close to the culture, wildlife and communities of Greenland’s most isolated areas.

Before boarding the Fram in Reykjavik, Iceland, guests can take in some of the cosmopolitan city’s many museums and shops or sightsee among the glaciers, waterfalls and geysers just outside the city’s boundaries. Four days are spent exploring the eastern and southern villages of Greenland including visits to Køge Bay, where the Greenland ice cap races to the sea; Umivik, the starting point of Fridtjof Nansen’s epic first crossing of the Ice Cap; and Qassiarsuk, where Erik the Red in exile founded a colony that persisted for some 500 years. The ship then heads across the Labrador Sea, stopping in Newfoundland and then turning south to Halifax via St Anthony, Bonne Bay and Baddeck in Nova Scotia — taking time to visit three UNESCO World Heritage Sites: L’Anse Aux Meadows, where Norse settlers began to get a foot hold in North America; Red Bay; and Gros Morne National Park; among other excursions.

Sailing aboard Fram means large, comfortable lounges with panoramic windows and wonderful views from large outdoor decks; no need to dress up for dinner (unless you want to) and open seating; fresh seasonal ingredients, plenty of incredible seafood and a comprehensive wine list; multilingual tour directors; comfortable cabins – from the smaller inside accommodations to the large outside suites that offer TV, mini-bar, queen-size beds and numerous bonuses including a free bottle of champagne, two free shore excursions, complimentary wine with lunch or dinner and a free round of mini bar use; and a friendly and well-informed crew, ready to offer assistance and suggestions when asked. The public areas also include an Internet café, a wellness centre with saunas, work-out room and two glass-screened heated outdoor whirlpools.

All sailings include cabin category selected, three meals daily aboard ship, lectures, services of naturalist guides, specified land excursions and PolarCirkel boat landings, ship transfers, government fees, cruise taxes and port charges. Add-on airfares from dozens of North American gateways range from $100 to $600. Prices do not include airline fuel surcharges, air taxes and ticketing fees of $439 to $489.

Expedition Cruising – Is Antarctica Getting Too Crowded?

More Cruisers for Antarctica
During the 2006/07 Antarctic season 9,693 Americans, 4,518 Brits, 4,082 Germans and 2,756 Australians landed in Antarctica out of a total of 29,576. The 2007/08 total is expected to be around 34,000. With Silversea recently introducing its Prince Albert II, Lindblad Expeditions National Geographic Explorer and GAP Adventures buying a ship to replace its own Explorer, lost in the Antarctic last November, there is much new for visitors to the Antarctic.
New money is also going into the expedition business and main line cruise operators are planning a “scenic” invasion that could see close to 50,000 tourists sail to the seventh continent next year. But one question remains. What if there is an accident?
New Expedition Ships
Last week brought news that GAP Adventures of Toronto had purchased the 345-foot Viking Line ferry Alandsfarjan for $2.6 million. GAP intends to convert the 6,172-ton Ice Class 1B Swedish ferry, into an expedition ship that will replace its ill-fated 108-passenger Explorer, lost in Antarctic waters in November.
This year, GAP chartered the 98-passenger Russian ship Polaris, a near-sister to the original Explorer, as a stop-gap measure. As presently configured with bow and stern doors and car decks, as well as no major overnight accommodation, the new 1972-built acquisition will need some major conversion work before she can go into service as an expedition ship.
Meanwhile, the inaugural voyage of Silversea Cruises’ first expedition ship, the 120-passenger Prince Albert II, has left Londonfor islands of the Atlantic, Norway and Spitsbergen.
Acquired last year from Sembawang Shipyards in Singapore, the Ice Class 1A 6,072-ton Prince Albert II was previously Society Expeditions’ rather luxurious World Discoverer II, but has lain idle since that company went out of business five years ago. Two weeks after Prince Albert II leaves London, Lindblad Expeditions’ new Ice Class 1A 148-guest National Geographic Explorer enters service.
Formerly Hurtigruten’s 6,167-ton Lyngen, this 1982-built coastal mail boat, has been converted in Las Palmas into a much-reinforced 350-foot expedition ship,  left her old home port of Bergen on June 26 for her own first voyage, to the Norwegian fjords and Spitsbergen.
Meanwhile, Oceanwide Expeditions of the Netherlands is planning to convert the former 2,977-ton Dutch oceanographic ship Tydeman into the 296-foot expedition ship Plancius, full details of which have not yet been announced. For 2008 and 2009, however, they will use the 84-passenger chartered Chilean vessel Antarctic Dream.
Corporate Changes
A lot has also happened recently in terms of the ownership of expedition companies, particularly as First Choice Holidays, the UK holiday company that is now part of Germany’s TUI, has acquired a fistful of expedition companies, not only marine but also land-based, in a move to diversify away from mainstream travel.
It started with First Choice’s £19.5 million acquisition of Melbourne-based Peregrine Adventures in November 2005, along with the operation of the 110-passenger Akademik Ioffe and Akademik Sergey Vavilov. The very next month First Choice announced the purchase of St Louis-based INTRAV, operating the 122-guest Clipper Adventurer and 128-berth Clipper Odyssey (as well as the smaller US-flag Nantucket Clipper and Yorktown Clipper, which were sold on to Cruise West).
Finally, last May, when Quark Expeditions founder Lars Wikander announced his retirement, First Choice revealed that it was also buying Connecticut-based Quark, whose fleet consisted of one owned ship, the 82-passenger Ocean Nova, and a number of chartered Russian and Ukrainian ships. These included the 120-passenger icebreaker Kapitan Khlebnikov, the 110-berth Lyubov Orlova, the 50-passenger Akademik Shokalskiy and Professor Multanovskiy,and the 100-passenger nuclear icebreaker Yamal, which it uses for one or two voyages to the North Pole every year.
All previous operations of Peregrine and Clipper have now been brought together under Quark, which has gained new offices in Melbourne and St Louis.
By summer, Quark sublets the Lyubov Orlova to Cruise North Expeditions of Toronto, which offers cruises from Kuujjuaq, Quebec, (formerly Fort Chimo) to Baffin Island and Hudson Bay.
Cruise North is owned by Makkovik Corporation, a native company, and had previously used the 66-passenger Argentine ship Ushuaia. A few days after announcing its acquisition of Quark, First Choice announced that the sale of Clipper Adventurer and Clipper Odyssey to International Shipping Partners (ISP) of Miami, but with the charter back of  Clipper Adventurer for the next five Antarctic seasons.  Clipper Odyssey will be used by Zegrahm Expeditions of Seattle and Noble Caledonia of London.
ISP itself has greatly expanded its own activities in the small ship sector, particularly in connection with the Clipper Group of Denmark.
It also manages the 112-passenger Island Sky for Noble Caledonia, the 60-passenger Quest for Polar Quest of Gothenburg and the 112-berth Corinthian II, which will sail the Antarctic for Travel Dynamics of New York, in addition to Quark’s Ocean Nova, a near sister of the Quest.
As well as these smaller vessels, over the past year Clipper, through ISP, has begun to acquire a number of medium-size cruise ships for charter to other operators.
Not related to Quark, but also owned by TUI, is Hapag-Lloyd Cruises, whose four-ship fleet includes two highest ice class expedition ships, the 184-guest Hanseatic and 164-berth Bremen, in the upmarket sector.
With a sale of Hapag-Lloyd AG by TUI now a possibility, its cruise operation, if not included, may soon be in need of a new name. Hapag-Lloyd will perform two Northwest Passage cruises in the summer of 2009, with Hanseatic and Bremen crossing the Canadian Arctic in opposite directions. The pair will meet in Cambridge Bay for a barbecue that will also be attended by the line’s managing director from Hamburg.
Meanwhile, Hapag-Lloyd is so heavily sold out on Antarctica departures that it raises the question of how or when it might add more capacity to fulfil this demand.
At the end of last month, it was announced that KSL Capital Partner had acquired Orion Expedition Cruises of Melbourne, who operate the 106-passenger Ice Class E3 Orion, built in Germany in 2003. The new owners said there would soon be fleet expansion by way of newbuildings and/or second-hand acquisitions.
Orion operates from Australian ports to the Antarctic, the Kimberley, Papua New Guinea, Melanesia and Asia. All these ships carry only 100 or so passengers and are equipped with zodiacs to land their passengers to observe wildlife (including seals, whales and of course the many varieties of penguins), the area’s spectacular scenery and international research stations, many of which are now historic sites.
Big Ships, Inexperienced Crews
The Antarctic tourist season, which normally runs from November to March, has flourished in the past fifteen years, growing from around 6,500 visitors in 1997 to 30,000 in 2007, or five times in a decade.
Part of this huge growth has come from main line cruise operators that operate larger ships than the adventure companies. Beginning in 1993 with Orient Lines’ 848-passenger Marco Polo, now operating for Transocean Tours of Bremen, this grew when the 710-berth Discovery joined her in 2001 after being acquired by Voyages of Discovery.
Two newer Norwegian Hurtigruten ships, the 500-passenger Fram and 690-passenger Nordnorge have also joined this sector. These ships limit the number of passengers they carry in the Antarctic to between 350 and 400 in order to be able to perform landings. Even then, as not all passengers can be landed at one time, they must do so in stages.
Others in this category include Saga, Peter Deilmann and now Transocean.
More recently, lines such as Holland America and Princess, the big two in Alaska, have scheduled cruises to the Antarctic. These larger ships do not offer landings but something they call “scenic cruising” of the “dazzling landscape” of the Antarctic.
This year, Golden Princess carried 2,425 passengers and 1,120 crew to the Antarctic, and her sister ship Star Princess is to do the same in 2009.
Holland America’s Rotterdam, which can carry up to 1,668 passengers, also made a cruise to the Antarctic Peninsula in January. The latest to join the fray, with an announcement last month, is Celebrity Cruises, whose Celebrity Infinity, which can carry up 2,450 passengers, will perform two Antarctic cruises in 2010.
Of the upmarket cruise lines, only Crystal has sent the 960-passenger Crystal Symphony on such “scenic” cruises.
What worries people most about these ships is not just the huge numbers of souls they can carry to isolated locations and the lack of Antarctic knowledge among their officers and crews, but also the fact that the owners of these ships do not feel it is necessary to have double hulls or even ice-strengthening to navigate these waters, not to mention the risk of pollution from the heavy oil that these ships burn as opposed to the lighter diesel used by most expedition ships.
What if there is an accident?
Last year, at about 3 am on November 23, GAP Adventure’s Explorer was holed by ice near King George Island, taking on water and beginning to list.
All 154 passengers and crew were evacuated after about 5 hours in lifeboats and she sank about 15 hours later. The Explorer had been built in 1969 as Lindblad Explorer, the pioneer Antarctica expedition ship, designed for navigating these waters.
Ten years ago, at 1:30 am on December 15, 1998, Royal Caribbean’s Monarch of the Seas struck Proselyte Reef in Great Bay, St Maarten, causing a 130 by 7 foot gash in her starboard hull.
All 2,557 passengers had to be evacuated by tender and flown home after the ship started taking on water.
One of her officers at the time recently told this author that the ship would have sunk had her master not taken quick action to ground her on a nearby sandbank, something that the subsequent investigation said would take a minimum of about 12 hours. Ninety years ago, at about 2 am on October 24, 1918, Canadian Pacific’s Princess Sophia, en route from Skagway to Juneau, Alaska, grounded on Vanderbilt Reef in the Lynn Canal.
All 343 passengers and crew lost their lives 39 hours later after heavy weather prevented rescue efforts and she slipped off the reef and sank in deep water.
Lost in time, this tragedy was completely overshadowed by the end of the First World War a few days later.
In the case of Explorer, winds were not high and there was no fog at the time.
In the case of Monarch of the Seas, despite the large numbers involved, help was as near as the closest shore tender by which the ship’s passengers were rescued.
In the case of Princess Sophia, though, even though she was in isolated waters, help was at hand. But over a period of almost two days the weather prevented anyone from being rescued before she sank, taking all with her within sight of land.
As it happens, as National Geographic Explorer is in drydock at Las Palmas, her 110-berth fleetmate National Geographic Endeavour is also there, undergoing some work of her own.
She had participated along with the Nordnorge in the Explorer rescue in November. As for  Nordnorge, the Explorer rescue was actually her second of the year, as in January she had been called to evacuate 294 passengers from her sister ship Nordkapp after she ran aground off Deception Island, something that forced the cancellation of the rest of her 2007 season.
And just this January, Hurtigruten gave 50% refunds to passengers of  Fram, the Nordkapp‘s replacement, after her engines failed and she drifted into ice at Brown’s Bluff during her Christmas cruise to Antarctica.
After receiving ice damage to one of her lifeboats, she had to cancel her subsequent cruise as well.
As well as the natural threats of wind, weather, ice and grounding, not to mention machinery failure, there is the hazard of fire. In March 2006,Star Princess, which is scheduled to sail to Antarctica in 2009, suffered a fire in which one died and eleven were injured.
At the time, she was sailing between Grand Cayman and Jamaica and help was nearby.
But in Antarctica help can be 36 to 48 hours away across the Drake Passage, one of the roughest stretches of water in the world. To quote a cruise expert who has sent many adventurers to the Antarctic, “When Explorer sank they had just 154 people to rescue. Twenty times that many would be a catastrophe.”
To send ships to the Antarctic without double hulls, let alone any ice strengthening, is probably begging for something to happen and it might behoove the 46 nation members of the Antarctic Treaty Organization to have a look at this.
There is a saying in shipping that the more times you move something, the more chance there is of damaging it, and the same holds true of ships.
The International Association of Antarctic Tour Operators (IAATO), possibly in an attempt to be able to control them, has allowed the owners of larger cruise ships to become members. In an effort to do so, since 2001 it has required that ships carrying more than 500 passengers make no landings in the Antarctic.
IAATO, founded by seven private members in 1991, now consists of 104 private companies, 44 of which are full members and five of these are cruise lines.
There is a precedent that some IAATO members already have to follow at the other end of the world. A good set of regulations exists in Canada, which has its own set of rules for Arctic waters. Called the Arctic Ice Regime Shipping System, it was designed to enforce the Arctic Waters Pollution Prevention Act of 1970.
Although the Arctic suffers from multi-year pack ice, it includes areas that have only seasonal ice and the scheme, whlle complicated, may be worth a look.
But the main question is should ships with no ice strengthening be allowed to cruise the Antarctic?
(Source: By Mark Tré – Cybercruises.com)

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